IS IT TIME TO BREAKUP WITH YOUR ATHLETIC WEAR?
Hey girl! Casey here, I want to share my personal experience about toxic fabrics and athletic wear. Back in 2018 when I sat down to start developing a clothing brand, I had no idea about the hidden dangers in our clothes. This wasn't (and still isn't) common knowledge.
The process when picking out fabrics is to find a few distributers (usually recommended by your manufacturer) and ask for fabric samples in the category you're looking for. They'll then send you swatch samples with all their colors and details about each fabric; usually material content and fabric weight. The Federal Trade Commission only requires U.S. clothing retailers to share fiber content, country of origin, and the identity of the manufacturer on labels... so fabric mills don't have a spec sheet or disclosure that outlines types of dyes they use, what finishes they put on their fabrics, what the ink contents are, etc... So unless you are specifically looking for fabrics free of harmful chemicals, you have no idea what you're getting.
​
Since learning about this, Koa Athletics went full #crunchy. We not only care about your safety when it comes to firearms, we also care about your overall health and wellbeing. It wouldn't feel right to produce clothing with whatever fabrics we felt like using knowing that there may be potential harmful chemicals in them.
Clothing Recalls
I want to share a few recalls to show that harmful chemicals can be found in our clothing at even some of the most well known brands and stores.
​
In November of 2022, Bentex Group recalled about 87,000 pieces of Disney themed children's clothing due to the risk of lead poisoning. The textile ink contained levels of lead that exceed either the Federal Lead Paint Ban or the Federal Lead Content Ban. These items have been selling from November 2021 through August 2022. These themed children's clothing were sold at TJMAXX, DD's/Ross, Burlington, Army & Air Force Exchange Service, and other stores nationwide as well as online at amazon.com (1).
​
In May 2027, about 1,700 Primark Wide Fit Kitten Heel Court Shoes were recalled due to elevated levels of Chromium-6, which posed a risk of skin irritation (2). What wasn't shared in the recall is that Chromium-6 is also a known carcinogen. I highly suggest watching the movie "Erin Brockovich" who exposed PG&E for careless practices of industrial wasted containing Chromium-6. Fantastic movie.
​
Other Chemicals...
Unfortunately there are hundreds of chemicals that have known adverse health effects are allowed in our clothing or find their way into clothing even though banned. Sometimes a chemical may be banned in the end product but still is allowed in the manufacturing process. Chemicals from clothing can enter the body through skin absorption, inhalation, and sucking on clothes. Many of these harmful chemicals bioaccumulate (rate of intake exceeds rate of excretion meaning small amounts can build up to large amounts overtime). Side note, I'm only addressing chemicals in clothing, these chemicals can be found all around us in products/materials in our homes, cars, work, etc.
Common Objectives (a sustainable fashion analytics firm) estimates that 27 million people who work in the fashion industry worldwide potentially suffer from work related illnesses and/or diseases due to working conditions and chemical exposure (3). Many of the chemicals listed below are found in clothing for babies, children, and adults including pregnant and/or breastfeeding women. These chemicals can be found in big name brands such as Lululemon, Old Navy, REI, Columbia, L.L. Bean, and many more. The ones listed are a just a peak into the the hundreds of harmful chemicals used in textiles.
​
Azo Dyes:
There are over 2,000 kinds of azo dyes with about 60-70% of them used for textile dying. Of these dyes, 4-5% of these can cleave (divide through degradation) forming aromatic amines. These are known carcinogens and can cause various cancers such as bladder and liver cancer (4). Germany actually recognizes bladder cancer as an occupational disease for textile workers (5). There are a few states that specifically restrict certain azo dyes (California, Vermont, Washington). There is no regulation that restrict azo dyes specifically in the United States, however there are bans or restrictions on aromatic amines that cleave from azo dyes (6).
​
Bisphenol A (BPA):
This chemical may have been banned from plastics, but it is still found in clothing. Brand name companies such as Adidas, Hanes, Athleta, Kohl’s, Nike, PINK, Asics, The North Face, Fabletics, Champion, Amazon Essentials, and many more that have high levels of BPA in their clothing. The Center for Environmental Health (CEH) has tested numerous brands for BPA. In one test, they have found 39 brands that contained BPA that could expose individuals up to 40 times the safe limit of BPA in accordance with California law. Items tested include leggings, shorts, sports bras, and athletic shirts (7). So far, CEH has noticed that BPA has been found only in polyester based clothing with spandex. BPA is used in the manufacturing of polyester to improve properties and lifespan of the fabric. There are dozens of other bisphenols that can replace BPA, however they cause similar adverse health effects due to being chemically similar to BPA, many of these are found in products advertised as "BPA free". BPA is most known for being an endocrine disruptor. They look and act like hormones in the body and disrupt normal hormone functions causing many negative health effects such as cancers (specifically breast and prostate), fertility, puberty, hyperactivity, obesity, asthma, anxiety, depression, and more. (8)
​
Brominated Flame Retardants (BFR):
Commonly used to make clothes and household items flame retardant. There are over 75 different BFRs, a few of which has been banned. However many are still used today. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), human health effects include, "...cryptorchidism, alterations in thyroid hormone homeostasis, reproductive effects, and delayed development in school aged children..." It is also an endocrine disruptor and can cause neurotoxicity (9). There are several states that have been taking action against the use of BFRs (10).
Heavy Metals (Cadmium, Chromium-VI, Lead, Mercury):
Heavy metals are found commonly found in leather products but can also be found in dyes and fabric paints. These metals can bioaccumulate causing issues such as developmental problems, cancers, organ damage, infertility, and much more (11) (12).
​
Formaldehyde:
Formaldehyde is used as a wrinkle and stain resistant in clothing. It is often associated with the "new clothes" smell. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and can also cause skin irritations, headaches, and sore throats.
​
Pesticides, Herbicides, and Insecticides:
Conventional cotton is one of the largest users of pesticides. In fact, it is ranked as the third largest user of pesticides in the USA (corn and soybeans taking the top two spots). It's estimated that a third of cotton farming using Glycophate which is a known carcinogen (13). According to OECOTEXTILES, "Gas chromatography easily shows that common pesticides used on cotton crops are found in the fibers, such as: Hexachlorobenzene, Aldrin, Dieldrin, DDT and DDT." (14).
​
Per- and Polyfluorinated Substances (PFAS):
PFAS are often used for water-resistance, oil-resistance, and stain-resistance. With athletic wear, they are usually used for moisture-resistance and to wick away sweat. They are known as forever chemicals because they don't breakdown in the environment (literally would take hundreds or thousands of years) and are very difficult for the body to remove. They are endocrine disruptors and can cause a whole host of problems such as obesity, infertility, cancers, increased chance of miscarriage, learning disabilities, and more. Unfortunately a lot of big brands use PFAS in their clothing, Lululemon being one of them. (15)
Phthalates :
Phthalates are used to soften plastics and inks, which are often be found in synthetic active/sportswear. Phthalates are known endocrine disruptors and can also cause hormone disruption, cancers, asthma, reproductive issues, obesity, diabetes, and more. (16)
​
Fabric Types Matter Too...
​
The types of fabrics can play a huge role in our health too.
​
Conventional Cotton vs Organic Cotton:
While natural fibers like cotton are usually a better choice, however there are still drawbacks with conventionally grown cotton. Regular cotton is grown using genetically modified seeds. These seeds have been modified to resist bugs, however more pesticides are needed when bugs get stronger. Organic cotton is grown from natural seeds and pesticides are not used. Organic cotton also cannot be bleached to retain the organic label. Lastly, organic cotton produces around 46% less CO2 emissions than regular cotton and uses 91% less water than regular cotton during farming. (17)
​
Conventional Viscose vs Responsibly Made Viscose:
Viscose is a semi-natural fabric. It's made from cellulose (wood pulp) of trees where the cellulose is dissolved in a chemical solution to create a pulpy substance that can be spun into fibers and made into threads. The type of chemicals used to breakdown the cellulose is what determines the toxicity and sustainability of the fabric. Viscose commonly uses a chemical called carbon disulphide in the manufacturing process, this chemical has been linked to coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions, and cancer in textile workers as well as those who live near viscose factories. Responsibly made viscose are made with sustainable wood from controlled sources, use 50% less water, produce 50% less carbon emissions, and recover as well as reuse nearly all (over 99%) of the chemicals used in the production of viscose fibers. through a closed loop system (18) (19) (20). A quick note, just because a product is made with organic cotton, does not mean it's free from harmful chemicals. That is why we look for certifications in addition to the material.
​
Polyester vs Nylon:
Both polyester and nylon are plastic fabrics and require a lot of energy and water to create. While they have similar properties, they both are derived from petroleum through different processes. Polyester is also known as polyethylene terephthalate (PET). The biggest differences between these two fabrics is odor resistance, recyclability, and stretchability. Polyester absorbs oil resulting in retaining odors, nylon does not absorb oil so it tends not to retain the stink. Polyester can be recycled, nylon cannot. Polyester is much less stretchy than nylon (21). Polyester tends to be very difficult to dye resulting in requiring more harsh chemicals such as heavy metals, formaldehyde, and aromatic amines (22).
​
Now the negatives. Any synthetics derived from petroleum (acrylics, polyester, nylon, and spandex), are plastics which release microplastics into the environment during manufacturing, washing as a consumer, and in the landfill. Each load can release as many as 700,000 microfibers into the water which accumulates in aquatic animals and end up in our food even salt (23). To give a better idea, it s estimated that .5 million tonnes of plastic microfibers are shed yearly during washing of textiles. 75 percent of fish caught in the ocean have microplastics in their stomachs (24).
​
There are also human health issues related to synthetic fabrics. Polyester is the most referenced/studied fabric however I would personally conclude that other synthetics have similar effects. Miscarriages in women, infertility in men and women, and impotence in men has been linked with polyester underwear (25) (26). There was a study that tracked dogs wearing cotton underwear, polyester underwear, and nothing for 24 months continuously. "By the end of the 24 months there was a significant decrease in sperm count and motile sperms, with an increase in abnormal forms (P < 0.001); the testicular biopsy showed degenerative changes." Luckily, after the garment was removed, levels gradually improved to normal in most of the test subjects. (27)
​
Wool:
Wool is a natural fiber that come from sheep. It's extremely sustainable as it is biodegradable, renewable, natural, and highly recycled. Interestingly, wool acts as a fertilizer when it is disposed of by slowly releasing nutrients and carbon back into the soil. Wool also provides a whole host of benefits such as stain resistance, UV protection, odor resistance, is antimicrobial/antibacterial, fire resistance, temperature regulating, and more. This leads to less pollution through its manufacturing process as well as does not need to be washed nearly as much as other types of fibers (28) (29). I hope to be able to create wool leggings in the future.
​
​
Does the US Government Care?
​
The Environmental Working Group (EWG) states, "More than 80 nations -- ranging from major industrialized economies like the United Kingdom and Germany to developing states like Algeria and El Salvador -- have enacted rules targeting the ingredients of cosmetics and personal care products. Some of these nations have restricted or completely banned more than 1,600 chemicals from cosmetic products. By contrast, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has banned or restricted only nine chemicals for safety reasons."
​
You read that correctly. Nine. The FDA has banned/ restricted nine total chemicals for safety reasons. Feel free to make your own conclusions... (30)
​
Do Bans and Regulations Work?
​
While the intent of bans and regulations are well meaning, the follow through on these are atrocious. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) was created to protect the public from "Unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products under its jurisdiction, including products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children." However, according to commission data cited by Bloomberg, "Less than one percent of imported products are inspected by the CPSC for safety issues." AKA it's up to the companies to quality control of their products as very few consumer items are actually inspected. #mindblown (31)
​
Certifications We Look For
​
There are a few great certifications to look for in clothing. When it comes to sourcing our fabrics for our leggings, we make sure at least one of the following certifications are applied.
​
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): "The aim of the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is to define requirements to ensure the organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer." (32)
​
Oeko-Tex Standard 100: "OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a label for textiles tested for harmful substances. It sets the benchmark for textile safety, from yarn to finished product. Every item bearing the STANDARD 100 label is certified as having passed safety tests for the presence of harmful substances." (33)
​
Bluesign: "From fiber to finished product, we partner with brands, manufacturers, and chemical suppliers because the world needs safer workplaces and textile products that are less impactful on the environment and people. Consumers can trust that bluesign labeled textiles and products from the chemical inputs to the final production have met the strictest standards throughout the supply chain." (34)
​
What Do We Do?
​
We unfortunately can't avoid all chemicals but there are things we can look for when buying clothes or household items. Here's a list of great things to start with:
​
- When in doubt, avoid clothing that says it's odor-wicking, anti-wrinkle, flame-resistant, stain resistant, etc. Often harmful chemicals are used to make these qualities.
- Check out www.mamavation.com (my favorite online resource for everything toxins)
- Stick with vegetable tanned leather
- Buy organic
- Buy second hand clothing since they will have likely been washed many times, still wash when you buy before you wear
- Look for certifications such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Oeko-Tex Standard 100, Bluesign, or EU Ecolabel
- If something is super cheap, there is probably a hidden cost in terms of toxic chemicals or unsustainable practices
- Wash clothes before you wear them
- Stick with natural materials like wool, cotton, linen​
- Do research on a company
- Avoid fast fashion
Full Transparency
​
Our leggings do not have any certifications, however they are made with certified fabrics. In order for the entire product to be certified under these labels, everything has to be tested (thread, inks, fabric, elastic, labels, etc), in addition, some certifications require items to be made in a certified facility to obtain the certification. That is extremely expensive and time consuming. Also, to our knowledge, there are no facilities in the USA that have these certifications. We also haven't figured out how to source threads and other pieces that are certified. We figured fabric covering half our body was most important. One step at a time.
​
We are also providing synthetic leggings because they do offer a benefit when it comes to performance for fitness applications. We believe that nylon is the better option when compared with polyester so that's what we are going with.
​
What's most important to us is working on developing a sustainable brand by using quality materials that focus on sustainability and health for you and the environment.
​
Sources
​
(1) “Bentex Recalls Children’s Clothing Sets Due to Violation of the Federal Lead Paint and Lead Content Ban; Lead Poisoning Hazard.” U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2023/Bentex-Recalls-Childrens-Clothing-Sets-Due-to-Violation-of-the-Federal-Lead-Paint-and-Lead-Content-Ban-Lead-Poisoning-Hazard. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(2) “Primark Recalls Kitten Heel Court Shoes Due to High Levels of Chromium; Risk of Skin Irritation.” U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2020/Primark-Recalls-Kitten-Heel-Court-Shoes-Due-to-High-Levels-of-Chromium-Risk-of-Skin-Irritation. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(3) “Death, Injury and Health in the Fashion Industry.” Common Objective, Common Objective, 31 May 2018, www.commonobjective.co/article/death-injury-and-health-in-the-fashion-industry.
​
(4) Chuiyan MoMo Chuiyan has an MA degree in Islamic Studies from the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. She has previously worked as a marketing developer for Middle Eastern countries in an E-commerce company. She has also worked as a merchandiser in the garmen. “Azo Dye Regulations in the United States: An Overview.” Compliance Gate, 7 Mar. 2023, www.compliancegate.com/azo-dye-regulations-united-states/.
​
(5) Golka K;Heitmann P;Gieseler F;Hodzic J;Masche N;Bolt HM;Geller F; “Elevated Bladder Cancer Risk Due to Colorants--a Statewide Case-Control Study in North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany.” Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health. Part A, U.S. National Library of Medicine, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18569584/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(6) Comparative Analysis of Azo Dye Restriction in The ..., scholarworks.uark.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1017&context=ampduht. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(7) “Tell Activewear Ceos: Take the BPA out of Sports Bras and Athletic Shirts.” Home - Action Network, https://actionnetwork.org/petitions/bpa-in-clothes. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(8) Carnevale, Sophie. “What You Need to Know about BPA in Clothing.” Center for Environmental Health, 24 Feb. 2023, ceh.org/what-you-need-to-know-about-bpa-in-clothing/.
​
(9)“Brominated Flame Retardants.” EPA, Environmental Protection Agency, 17 Jan. 2012, cfpub.epa.gov/si/si_public_record_report.cfm?Lab=NHEERL&dirEntryId=226582.
​
(10) “U.S. Legislation Updates: Flame Retardants in Consumer Products.” SGSCorp, www.sgs.com/en/news/2021/02/safeguards-01721-us-legislation-updates-flame-retardants-in-consumer-products. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(11) O Ecotextiles (and Two Sisters Ecotextiles). “Chromium in Fabrics.” OEcotextiles, 28 Feb. 2013, oecotextiles.blog/2013/02/28/chromium-in-fabrics/.
​
(12) “Heavy Metals.” Two Sisters Ecotextiles, www.twosistersecotextiles.com/pages/heavy-metal. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(13) The Organic Center, www.organic-center.org/chemical-use-conventional-cotton. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(14) O Ecotextiles (and Two Sisters Ecotextiles). “How to Get Rid of Chemicals in Fabrics. (Hint: Trick Question.).” OEcotextiles, 26 Oct. 2011, oecotextiles.blog/2010/11/10/how-to-get-rid-of-chemicals-in-fabrics-hint-trick-question/.
​
(15) Segedie, Leah. “Sports Bras & Pfas ‘Forever Chemicals’ Purchasing Guide 2022.” MAMAVATION, 1 Dec. 2023, www.mamavation.com/product-investigations/sports-bras-pfas-forever-chemicals-purchasing-guide.html#Not_Our_Favorite_Sports_Bras.
​
(16) “Sweater Weather Worries: What to Know before You Layer Up.” Environmental Working Group, 1 May 2024, www.ewg.org/news-insights/news/2023/12/sweater-weather-worries-what-know-you-layer.
​
(17) “Organic Cotton vs Regular Cotton.” The Wool Room US, www.thewoolroom.com/us/blog/organic-cotton-regular-cotton/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(18) “Material Guide: What Is Viscose and Is It Sustainable?” Good On You, 12 Feb. 2024, goodonyou.eco/material-guide-viscose-sustainability/.
​
(19) “LenzingTM ECOVEROTM: Sustainable Viscose Fibers for Fabrics.” LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM: Sustainable Viscose Fibers For Fabrics, www.ecovero.com/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(20) “Lenzing Group.” Lenzing, www.lenzing.com/sustainability/production/resources/chemicals. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(21) “Comparing Polyester vs. Nylon Clothing.” Equipe Athletics, equipeathletics.com/blogs/news/comparing-polyester-vs-nylon-clothing. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(22) “Is Polyester Really *that* Bad?” The Sustainable Fashion Forum, The Sustainable Fashion Forum, 1 Nov. 2023, www.thesustainablefashionforum.com/pages/quick-question-what-is-polyester-and-is-it-really-that-bad-for-the-environment.
​
(23) Author links open overlay panelImogen E. Napper, et al. “Release of Synthetic Microplastic Plastic Fibres from Domestic Washing Machines: Effects of Fabric Type and Washing Conditions.” Marine Pollution Bulletin, Pergamon, 26 Sept. 2016, www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0025326X16307639.
​
(24) Wieczorek, Alina M., et al. “Frequency of Microplastics in Mesopelagic Fishes from the Northwest Atlantic.” Frontiers, Frontiers, 26 Jan. 2018, www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2018.00039/full.
​
(25) A;, Shafik. “Contraceptive Efficacy of Polyester-Induced Azoospermia in Normal Men.” Contraception, U.S. National Library of Medicine, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1623716/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(26) Polyester Is Dangerous and Bad for Your Health, saddlebackleather.com/polyester-is-dangerous-and-bad-for-your-health/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(27) A;, Shafik. “Effect of Different Types of Textile Fabric on Spermatogenesis: An Experimental Study.” Urological Research, U.S. National Library of Medicine, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8279095/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(28) “Wool as a Sustainable Fibre for Textiles.” Woolmark, www.woolmark.com/industry/sustainability/wool-is-a-sustainable-fibre/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(29) “Wool Fibre - Properties, Facts & Benefits: The Woolmark Company.” Wool Fibre - Properties, Facts & Benefits | The Woolmark Company, www.woolmark.com/fibre/. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(30) “On Protecting Consumers from Toxics in Cosmetics, U.S. Lags at Least 80 Countries.” Environmental Working Group, 2 May 2024, www.ewg.org/news-insights/news/2021/08/protecting-consumers-toxics-cosmetics-us-lags-least-80-countries.
​
(31) Taylor & RingServing clients throughout the Greater Los Angeles and Southern California area. “Less than 1 Percent of Imported Products, Including Toys, Inspected for Safety Issues.” Taylor & Ring, 24 Oct. 2019, www.taylorring.com/blog/less-1-percent-imported-products-including-toys-inspected-safety-issues/.
​
(32) Gots (Global Organic Textile Standard) Version 7.0, global-standard.org/images/resource-library/documents/standard-and-manual/GOTS_7.0__SIGNED_.pdf. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(33) “Home.” OEKO, www.oeko-tex.com/en/our-standards/oeko-tex-standard-100. Accessed 11 May 2024.
​
(34) “Bluesign® - Solutions and Services for a Sustainable Textile Industry.” Bluesign, 4 Apr. 2024, www.bluesign.com/en/.